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THE VOODOO MARKET OF TOGO

akodessawa-fetish-marketThe Akodessawa Fetish Market in Lomé, Togo has to be seen to be believed. Here on display is a vast array of animal parts -- heads, skulls, bones, horns, skins et al – for sale to the adherents of Togo’s official religion of Voodoo. They are used to communicate with and pray to the huge variety of spirits and deities they believe in.

What you see here is a very small fraction of the market – there are thousands of animal parts here from entire elephant skulls to small mummified rodents. Behind the displays are stalls where voodoo priests cater to devotees for healing potions or being an interlocutor to the spirits. This is not sticking pins in dolls of enemies. The people of Togo and neighboring Benin believe deeply in their religion. Togo in West Africa is the size of New Jersey and has over 130 fetish markets in the country, with the largest here. This is an experience you never forget.

(Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #273 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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THE AFRICANIZATION OF AMERICA

THE AFRICANIZATION OF AMERICA[This Monday’s Archive was originally published on March 21, 2012.  Then we were suffering under the rule of an America-hating autocrat  from Kenya.  Today, New Yorkers may soon be under the rule of an America-hating autocrat from Uganda. It was written while in Ghana, West Africa, and recounts how a Marxist named Kwame “Africanized” Ghana’s economy into ruin.  Zohan Kwame Mamdani threatens to do exactly that to New York, as it is who  his Marxist father named him after to be his model,  The description below of Ghana’s Kwame fits New York’s Kwame to a T.]

TTP, March 21, 2012

Accra, Ghana. By independence in 1952, Ghana was the richest tropical country in the world, with huge foreign currency reserves from massive sales of cocoa, coffee, gold, timber, and bauxite.  The Brits had provided the new nation with an efficient civil service, an impartial judiciary, a fair electoral system with competent elected politicians, and a prosperous middle class.

Its rule Nkrumah was wildly popular, promising hope and change that would solve everyone’s grievances.  The world press fawned on him just as obsequiously, starting with a Time Magazine cover story in 1953.

Nkrumah’s true identity was plain for anyone to see – a charismatic charlatan, an intellectual lightweight, a self-proclaimed Marxist who hated capitalism, a self-worshipping narcissist of the highest order, and a black racist who hated whites and the West.  So radical left the Soviet Union awarded him the Lenin Peace Prize in 1962.

To the surprise of no one with unblinkered vision, but to the shocked surprise and denial of every fawning liberal on the planet, he proceeded to run Ghana straight into the ground. As he built a personality cult around him -- Ghana’s soldiers, e.g., marched to the cadence “Nkrumah can do no wrong, Nkrumah can do no wrong” – Ghana’s fabulous economy collapsed and sunk into a morass of corruption.

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FLASHBACK FRIDAY – SLEEPING IN AN IGLOO

jw-bw-iglooApril 1990. When our oldest son Brandon was six years old, I took him with me to the North Pole. It was my 14th expedition there, and as always, we stopped to visit friends at Canada’s northernmost community, the Inuit hunting village of Grise Fiord on Ellesmere Island. Brandon thought it would be cool to sleep in an igloo, which the Inuit do only when they’re hunting seals or walrus far out on the ice.

So the villagers happily complied, showing him how they built one, carving out blocks of wind-blown snow, shaping and placing them in an inward-sloped spiral with one block on top, and packing snow as mortar between the blocks. When it was bedtime – still daylight with 24-hour sunshine by April – they lined the inside with caribou skins, which shed like crazy with hairs everywhere but sure are warm. Snuggled into our arctic down sleeping bags, we slept like stones.

It was an experience both of us will never forget. Never pass up an opportunity to have an adventure with your kids they’ll always remember. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #50 Photo ©Jack Wheeler)

Jack Wheeler is Escape Artist’s World Exploration Expert. He is the founder of Wheeler Expeditions at WheelerExpeditions.com.

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HALF-FULL REPORT 06/27/25

Good grief – how much winning can we take in a week?  Somehow we’ll handle it, comforted by knowing that all of America’s enemies foreign and domestic are in a deep dark hole of depression.

From last Saturday night’s (6/21) epic obliteration of Mullah Iran’s nuke dreams…

 

…to SCOTUS 6-3 scuttling Demtard universal injunction dreams by Trump-hating judges this morning (6/27)…

 

…President Badass is having quite a week – but Team Trump is stepping up to the plate as well.  Enjoy this quartet sample:

And we’re only just getting started for this HFR.

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THE CHRISTIAN CATHEDRAL OF A COUNTRY THAT DOESN’T EXIST

cathedral-of-christ-the-saviorBanja Luka, Srpska.  You may never have of this country, the Republic of Srpska, that takes up half the size and 40% of the population of the Balkan country of Bosnia-Herzegovina.  The entire country was conquered and ruled for centuries by the Islamic Ottoman Empire, thus after the Ottomans fell in WWI and Yugoslavia broke apart after the Soviet Union fell, those Bosnians who retained adherence to Christianity through those centuries of Islamic occupation found themselves greatly outnumbered by those who had converted to Islam (“Bosniaks”).  So they (Bosnian Serbs) formed their own country which remains unrecognized by every other country on the planet.

They rebuilt their beautiful Cathedral of Christ the Savior – destroyed in WWII and never allowed rebuilding by Communist Yugoslavia – in their capital of Banja Luka.  You can see how gorgeous the interior is from the photo.  The whole country is beautiful with its lakes, forests, rivers, vineyards, sprinkled with old castles and charming villages. The people of Srpska are proud of what they have achieved and now simply want to live in peace with their neighbors.  (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #300, photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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MOUTHWASH FOR YOUR BRAIN

Amyloid plaques form among neurons in the brain

Amyloid plaques form among neurons in the brain

Last month (5/01), I told you about Water and Your Brain in a Live Long & Prosper column.  This month, we’re going to talk about… mouthwash for your braln.

And for the same reason – to prevent what you see in the photo above:  orange blobs of amyloid plaques in the brain that cause Alzheimer’s.

As we learned last month – “one of the most common causes of senile dementia and Alzheimer’s is chronic dehydration” – it turns out that another common cause of AD is gingivitis.

According to research conducted by University of California Psychiatry Professor Stephen Dominy — Porphyromonas gingivalis in Alzheimer’s disease brains – it works like this.

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THE SPIRAL CHURCH OF UVEA

church-of-the-sacred-heartHalfway between Samoa and Fiji in the South Pacific lies the French Territory of Wallis and Futuna.  It’s so hard to reach I had to charter a King Air private plane to get here in 2016.  The capital is Mata-Utu on Wallis Island which the native Polynesian islanders call Uvea.  French missionaries arrived at Uvea in 1837 to convert the islanders to Roman Catholic Christianity.  They were Marist Brothers, a branch of the Society of Mary. Today, 99% of the native islanders are Catholic.

The spiral church you see, Église du Sacré-Coeur (Church of the Sacred Heart) was built in the early 1900s out of hand-cut volcanic rocks .  The interior is spectacular, and if you look high up on the fourth tier you’ll see a figure in an opening.  That’s a statue of Jesus with arms outstretched in welcome to all who worship here.  The islanders consider themselves French citizens with representation in both the French Senate and National Assembly in Paris.  At the same time they consider themselves ruled by their own king – the King of Uvea (Wallis) and the King of Sigave (Futuna), which the French government recognizes.  This is a peaceful, friendly, interesting place.  (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #299, photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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TEENAGERS OF BUKHARA

bukhara-teenagersBukhara is the oldest city on the fabled Silk Road.  You’ve seen Glimpses of The Well of Job, where legend says Job of the Old Testament struck the ground with his staff, creating a well bubbling with fresh pure water that still flows today.

And of The Ark of Bukhara, the palace-fortress of Bukhara rulers since 500 BC.  The ancient Silk Road oasis has a history of 5,000 years.  I was first here in 1963, a 19 year-old teenager with a summer job of filming fabulously exotic places in Central Asia unknown to the West for a Hollywood stock film company.

I was not much older than these teenage ladies back then.  I took this picture of them when I was last in Bukhara in 2019.  It was so extraordinarily lucky of me to experience such magical places as Bukhara when young.  It’s enabled me to stay young at heart so many decades later.

If you remain young at heart, please consider joining me on my next exploration of Central Asia.  And perhaps you have a teenage child or grandchild with whom you could experience its wonders together.  It will be a life-long treasured memory for you both.  Carpe diem! (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #214 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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HOW CLOSE CAN YOU GET TO A BABY SPERM WHALE?

baby-sperm-whaleThis close – if you’re at the right place at the right time in the right boat.  That would be the Canal do Faial channel between the islands of Faial and Pico in the Azores, populated by more spawning sperm whales that just about anywhere else.  It’s also a haven for many other whale and dolphin species on their migratory route between the North and South Atlantic.

This is one of the world’s best whale-watching sites each year in June—and we plan to be there again on our exploration of Atlantic Paradises next year.

You won’t believe how truly paradisical Madeira and the Azores are.  Not just the weather and the beauty, but how safe, calm, and serene they are, how friendly everyone is – so friendly because everyone here is at peace with themselves.  You’ll discover your inner peace here too.  While never being bored as there’s always something exciting to see and do.  Like being this close to a baby sperm whale.

You owe it to yourself to make these Atlantic Paradises a part of your life. (Glimpses of our breathtaking world #195).

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TRUMP’S GENIUS HEAD FAKE

In Friday’s HFR, I had been totally suckered by POTUS’ head fake that morning (6/20): Trump To Decide ‘Within Next Two Weeks’ Whether To Join Iran Strikes — White House. Along with just about everyone else including every government leader on the planet save for Bibi, I thought this was yet another feckless Trump delay – never dreaming that the B-2 war plan was already underway at the time of the “Two Weeks” announcement.

Perhaps most astonishing was it caught everyone in the media by surprise.  Trump’s B-2 attack took enormous execution by a large number of people – yet it was never leaked to WaPo, AP. or the NY Times.  Their editors’ lifeblood is the spider web of contacts throughout any administration – especially inside the Pentagon or Foggy Bottom which are riddled with folks infected with TDS eager to leak and ruin a Trump triumph.

Keeping the secrecy lid on airtight is seriously impressive operational security on the part of POTUS.  Must be achingly depressing to the media.

What happened on Saturday night June 21 was historical.  The world is now living in the Age of Trump.  There is only one superpower on earth now and that’s America.  No other country could come remotely close to what our B2s did that night.  Or have the will to do it.

All of a sudden, Russia and China seem irrelevant.

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FLASHBACK FRIDAY – YOUNGEST PERSON EVER AT THE NORTH POLE

young-brandon-at-n-poleApril 22, 1990. This is my son Brandon, age six, happily atop a small pressure ridge of sea-ice at 90 North Latitude, the geographic North Pole. I started leading expeditions to 90N in 1978. This was my 12th, and the best weather there we’d ever had. A glorious day at the very top of our planet, and a glorious memory for both father and son.

If fortune favors you with the opportunity, have grand adventures with your children or grandchildren when they are young. They will treasure the memories so much they will someday tell their grandchildren about them. Life is short, carpe diem. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #104 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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HALF-FULL REPORT 06/20/25

Flaming Cliffs of the Gobi photo ©Jack Wheeler

Flaming Cliffs of the Gobi photo ©Jack Wheeler

These are the Flaming Cliffs of Mongolia’s Gobi Desert, made famous by American paleontologist Roy Chapman Andrews’ discovery of dinosaur eggs here in 1923.  I took this picture just a few days ago on my Explore Mongolia expedition with your fellow TTPers.  Now I’m back home. Yet a part of me is still there in Mongolia’s vastness.

There’s no Internet out there so for weeks I was blissfully unaware of the outside world’s shenanigans.  Only when I got back to Mongolia’s capital of Ulan Bator was I able to get online – and the first thing I did was read Mike Ryan’s HFRs of the last three weeks.  They are beyond brilliant.  Frankly, they are genius like no other website is graced with.  Do yourself a favor this weekend by savoring them.  Thanks yet again, Mike…

So here we go. Welcome to the Summer Solstice HFR.  What say we start with what everyone in Israel is watching this morning:

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MANICHEAN MOMENTS

manichean-moment Most often, there are valid perspectives on either side of a dispute, not a simple divide between good and evil with no gray areas in between.  That was not the case in Afghanistan in the 1980s.  The Mujahaddin you see here were fighting a morally just war against immoral atrocity.   The war waged by the Afghan Mujahaddin to liberate their country from Soviet Russian conquest was a Manichean Moment.

There is another Manichean Moment taking place right now in Ukraine.  Once again, Russia is attempting to subjugate an innocent country with bombs and immoral atrocity.  This is good vs. evil once more.  There is no gray area.  Those on the side of Ukraine and Zelensky fighting for freedom are on the side of moral decency.  Those on the side of Russia and Putin are not. They are on the side of irredeemable evil.

ukrainian-freedom-fighters

That’s why, when I see photos of Ukrainian freedom fighters atop Russian tanks they captured, it reminds me of those I took of Afghan freedom fighters atop Russian tanks they captured.  The Mujahaddin defeated Russia a third of a century ago.  The Ukrainians will defeat Russia now.  Good will triumph over evil once more. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #191 Afghanistan photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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PERSIAN HOPE

[I wrote this in September, 2018.  There was optimism back then that Trump 45 would rid Iran of its Mullah pestilence.  He may have done so had the Dems not stolen his presidency in 2020.  Now Trump 47 may succeed.  This is a companion piece to Catherine Salgado’s today on the Shah’s impending return as the Mullah regime collapses. There is again Persian Hope.  Enjoy the photos I took as well.]

Fresco of a Persian woman, Ali Qapu Palace, Isfahan, early 1600s – JW photo

Fresco of a Persian woman, Ali Qapu Palace, Isfahan, early 1600s – JW photo

Shiraz, Iran.  “Where are you from?” the Iranian man asked me.

With a big smile, I happily answered, “America.”  He responded with a smile of his own.  “Ah, America… America Number One!”

He hooked his two index fingers together.  “American people, Iranian people, good… friends.”  He unhooked his fingers and waved his hand in a gesture of contempt.  “Governments, no good.”  We both belly-laughed.

This took place in November of 2014, when our government meant the despised Obama to him.  It doesn’t mean that any longer. Iran is back in the news this week, with President Trump delivering a clear condemnation in his brilliant speech to the UN General Assembly Tuesday (9/25):

“We cannot allow the world’s leading sponsor of terrorism to possess the planet’s most dangerous weapons. We cannot allow a regime that chants “Death to America,” and that threatens Israel with annihilation, to possess the means to deliver a nuclear warhead to any city on Earth. Just can’t do it.

We ask all nations to isolate Iran’s regime as long as its aggression continues. And we ask all nations to support Iran’s people as they struggle to reclaim their religious and righteous destiny.”

Thus I am optimistic that there’s hope for Iran.  The long – two thousand five hundred year long – history of Persia and the West is what I call The Persian Ratchet.  An ebb and flow that ratchets up and down over the centuries.  I’ve appended a summary of this history at the end.  Note it includes why Persia had its name changed to Iran in 1935.

Note also that history comes after photos of mine that I’m sure you’ll enjoy.  For now, let’s talk about the Iranian people I met a little while ago, for it is they, not their government, that give me hope.

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THE TIBETAN KINGDOM OF LO

This is one of the magical places we experience on our Himalaya Helicopter Expeditions. An independent kingdom for 650 years in the remote Mustang region of Nepal, it is one of the last places of traditional Tibetan culture on earth, unchanged for centuries. There are sky-caves here – apartment complexes carved out of vertical cliffs 2,000 years ago – Drok-pa nomads in the high pastures, spectacular sacred ceremonies, all in a mysteriously beautiful setting where the Himalayas meet the Tibetan Plateau. We’ll be here again soon. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #86 Photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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PRINCESS RING ISLET

princess-ring-isletThis is real, it actually exists as you see it.  Princess Ring Islet is a small collapsed volcanic cone with a circular sunken crater.  Talk about an awesome swimming hole.  It’s several hundred yards off São Miguel Island in the Azores – and is just one of the many totally cool places we see in our exploration of  Atlantic Paradises.

At that time of year, the ocean around Princess Islet is filled with migrating whales and dolphins.  The Azores are one of the world’s greatest whale-watching sites.  You’d be very hard-pressed to find a cleaner, safer, more peaceful, more benign, and more astonishingly beautiful part of our planet than the Azores. And with more perfect weather.

The rest of the world and its craziness doesn’t exist here.  Don’t you owe it to yourself and the one you love to escape here for at least a short time?  Of course you do. Once you see all the pictures, I frankly don’t see how you can resist! (Glimpses of our breathtaking world #193)

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THE LEG ROWERS OF INLE LAKE

intha-peopleThe men of the Intha people living on Inle Lake in Burma have a unique way to fish. Using their large conical nets, they row by standing on one leg on the prow of their canoe, and paddle with their other leg. They feed their families this way. Burma (Myanmar) is one of the most picturesque, historical, and serene places on earth. We hope you can join us when we plan to be there again sometime soon. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #27 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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THE PERSIAN RATCHET

Tomb of Cyrus the Great (600-530 BC), Pasargadae, Iran

Tomb of Cyrus the Great (600-530 BC), Pasargadae, Iran photo ©Jack Wheeler

[This Monday’s Archive was originally published on August 18, 2005.  This “nutshell history” of Persia is obviously relevant to the current war between Israel and Mullah Iran.  It also itemizes the ethnic centrifugal forces that threaten to tear Iran apart.  This will provide historical context to the headlines of  today.]

TTP, August 18, 2005

The war between Persia and the West is very ancient, well over a thousand years older than the war between Islam and Christianity.

We could call the ebb and flow of Persia vs. the West for two and a half millennia the Persian Ratchet, as over the centuries it ratchets up and down.

This prelude should put in perspective that the ancient fight between Persia and the West has now ratcheted up once again, this time against us, with America demonized as the Great Satan. Once again, it is a duel to the death – for that it is what the Mullahs who run Iran have decided it must be, and so it shall be.

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FLASHBACK FRIDAY – THE SHRINE OF SHAH-I-ZENDA

shrine-of-shah-i-zendaThe Shrine of Shah-i-Zenda left an indelible memory upon me when I was first here on my first exploration of Central Asia in 1963.  It is one of the many medieval wonders of the ancient Silk Road Oasis of fabled Samarkand.  Preserved through the centuries, it is still here in all its glory.  Come with me this September to experience it and so much else, like the Pearls of Shing, the Mountains of Heaven, and camping with Kirghiz nomads, in the mysterious and magical heart of Central Asia.

(Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #201 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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A SULTAN’S ARABIA

nakhal-castleNakhal Castle, Oman. If you want to see an ultra-rich Arab sheikdom with exotically designed skyscrapers, you go to Qatar or Dubai. But if you want a more genuine Arabia of Sultan’s palaces, of forts and castles perched on rocky crags, of traditional villages tucked away in mountain fastnesses, of rock pools and grottoes gushing with spring water hidden in secret valleys, a place out of Arabian Nights rather than one of garish ostentatiousness – then you come here to the Sultanate of Oman.

Omanis are a polyglot people from all over Arabia, Persia, and India who’ve lived here for millennia, creating a cosmopolitan trading society that adheres to its traditional culture. There are fabulous hotels with great bars, concerts by the Omani Philharmonic Orchestra, and once outside the capital of Muscat, an Arabian wonderland so exotic it seems out of a movie. We'll be here again. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #119 Photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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THE GOLDEN THRONE OF KING TUT

king-tuts-golden-throneNow on display in National Museum of Egypt in Cairo, the 3,340 year-old artistic masterpiece of Pharoah Tutankhamun and his wife Ankhesenamun portrayed on facing back of the king’s throne chair was discovered by archaeologist Howard Carter in 1922.

I was stunned beyond words when I first saw it in 1971, and every time I’ve seen it since, I’m shocked into the same state of awe. It’s not simply the sheer beauty of the blue lapis lazuli, the red carnelian, the silver and the solid gold plate, nor the breathtaking skill of artistry. It’s that the scene is so profoundly, so touchingly human. As she gently rubs oil on to his arms, they are looking into each other’s eyes with the tenderness of love.

This is not some God-King high and mighty ruler and haughty Queen far above their lowly subjects, but a very human man and wife in love. This golden throne speaks to us from 33 centuries ago that back then people were people like us. Our connection to history is our common humanity. I hope someday you will be able to see the Golden Throne of King Tut in Cairo, and be in awe of it for yourself. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #168 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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THE LION ROCK OF SIGIRIYA

lion-rock-of-sigiriyaRising 600 feet above the jungles of central Ceylon (Sri Lanka) is a gigantic rock column revered for millennia as Sigiriya – Lion Rock from Sanskrit. It’s flat on top, used over centuries as a Buddhist monastery and a fortress by kings. In 480, King Kashyapa had the image of a lion carved into the rock as the entrance gate to his fortress-palace on top. All that’s left are the lion’s paws that you see.

It was a risky climb via stone stairs carved into the rock getting to the top. Today there’s a much safer wooden staircase. It’s a pilgrimage site for Sri Lankans where they get to celebrate their history and enjoy the gorgeous view on top. It’s a marvelous experience for you to participate in. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #158 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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THE INDIA LESS TRAVELED

This is Mysore Palace, home of the Wadiyar Rajas who ruled Mysore from 1399 to 1950.  It is one of the many wonders of Southern India that’s far less known than traveler’s meccas up north like Agra and Rajasthan.

There’s the Nagarhole Tiger Sanctuary, more Asian elephants than anywhere else in the world, over 100 tigers, scores of leopards, their prey in profusion. Christian churches founded by Christ’s disciple St. Thomas in the 1st century AD.  Towering Hindu temples covered with tens of thousands of eye-popping multi-colored sculptures.  The gorgeous beaches of Goa, the serene peace of the Kerala Backwaters – “one of the most beautiful locations on earth” according to National Geographic, that you explore by luxury houseboat. It goes on and on.

And here also you find the business metropolis of Bangalore, the Silicon Valley of India. We did all of this and more a few years ago, and may yet again before very long. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #81 Photo ©Jack Wheeler)

 

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MEXICAN NAZIS

[This Monday’s Archive was originally published on May 26, 2005. There's an old saying, The more things change, the more they stay the same. Unfortunately this has been so very true as evidenced in LA and other cities right now. Let's hope the current political cycle can see some permanent change in our relationship with Mexico.]

Two weeks ago on May 14, a small group of folks staged a peaceful rally in Baldwin Park, a predominantly Hispanic Los Angeles suburb. It was to demand the removal of a monument to anti-white racist hatred and bigotry, which is on public property and was erected by the city council at taxpayer expense. Here is one of its inscriptions:

baldwin_park2.jpg

They, of course, are the hated “Anglos,” the white European-Americans who “stole” the land from Mexico - who stole it from Spain who stole it from Indian tribes such as the Chumash (not the Aztecs, whose empire was in central Mexico, 2,000 miles away from LA), who stole it from other Indian tribes like the Shoshone.

The rally was met by a far larger, violent counter-demonstration led by an organization of Mexican Nazis who call themselves Reconquistas. These are people who want to “reconquer” the entire American Southwest ceded to the US in 1848 and have it become part of Mexico again.

One of the Reconquista chants was “Go back to Europe, go back to England, Gringos.” Another was, “Viva (long live) Zarqawi, the Gringo Killer,” in praise of arch-terrorist Abu Musab al-Zarqawi’s killing American soldiers in Iraq.

I first wrote about the Reconquistas two years ago in America’s Curse. Since then, they have become ever more explicitly and virulently pro-terrorist. The Baldwin Park incident this month is simply the latest example of how impossibly dangerous Mexican illegal immigration has become to America’s national security.

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FLASHBACK FRIDAY: NESOPHILIA

Tristan da Cunha ©2019 Jack Wheeler

Tristan da Cunha ©2019 Jack Wheeler

All right, I confess.  I am a nesophile.  I’m addicted to nesophilia.  It’s not on any list of psychiatric disorders, however.  The term was invented – a “neologism” – by one of the 20th century’s most eminent philosophers, Sir Isaiah Berlin (1909-1997) in 1938 while in Ireland.

When there, he combined the Greek word nesos – island, with philia – love, and declared he was a nesophile – a lover of islands.  That’s me.

I suppose that’s obvious by now – for I’ve lost count of the number of islands I’ve written about on TTP.

And there are so many more to go!  Yet I’ll be writing only about ones that are interesting, not even if they’re famous.  I just got back from Majorca and Ibiza, for example.  Nice enough, pretty enough – but, frankly, boring.  There’s no real there there, as Gertrude Stein said about Oakland, California.

So let’s take a quick look at some islands that would blow Gertrude Stein away – such as the one that has the bed Napoleon died in.

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BEAUTY AND LUNACY ON THE ADRIATIC SEA

albanian-bunkerSaranda, Albania. Standing on a hilltop here overlooking the Adriatic arm of the Mediterranean, you can’t help but be mesmerized by the beauty of the scene, the Adriatic coastline, “the wine-dark sea” as Homer so often described it, and off the coast the Greek island of Corfu. Yet you can’t help being puzzled by the small mound of concrete in the foreground. What is that, you ask?

It’s a one-man pillbox bunker with a slit in front for the soldier to fire at Albania’s enemies about to invade during the Cold War. Stalinist madman Enver Hoxha ruled Albania for forty years, from the end of WWII to his death in 1985. During which he built 750,000 of these bunkers in a country barely bigger than Massachusetts (11,000 square miles). He maintained his Fascist-Communist rule of total control by constantly claiming that Albania was surrounded by neighbor enemies – Yugoslavia, Greece, and Italy – all of whom were preparing to militarily invade, seize, and destroy Albania at any moment. For forty years.

With the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, Albania quickly liberated itself from its Communist past. Today it is stunningly gorgeous, a delight to travel through. The mushroom bunkers still litter the countryside, kept as a reminder of how history can go lunatic, and for Albanians to make sure such madness never happens to them ever again. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #296, photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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THE NATURAL INFINITY POOL OF SOCOTRA

pool-of-socotraNational Geographic calls the remote island of Socotra off the coast of Yemen in the Indian Ocean “the most alien-looking place on our planet,” because of its incredibly weird and bizarre plant life like the Dragon’s Blood Tree.

Yet it is safely far away from anarchic Yemen, peaceful and serene in its isolation. And it contains places of mesmerizing beauty – like this natural infinity pool on a cliff edge high above the ocean in full view. Socotra is spectacularly exotic, like nowhere else in our world. It is truly life-memorable to experience it. Wheeler Expeditions was there in the Spring of 2014 – and we’ll be there again soon. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #129 Photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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THE ISLAND OF SARK

la-coupeeThere are five Channel Islands in the English Channel. Best known are Guernsey and Jersey. Least visited is Alderney, along with tiny Herm. Most fascinating is Sark, Europe’s only remaining feudal fiefdom. No motor vehicles are allowed, excepting a few farmers’ small tractors. The governor and chief constable is called the Seneschal. He rides to his office on his bicycle.

It’s an ancient office with a tradition of many centuries. When I was there in 2010, it was held by Reginald Guille, a very friendly fellow as all Sarkese are. We rode our bikes around the island, even along La Coupée, the connecting path along the razor sharp high isthmus connecting two parts of the island – it’s pictured above.

There are gorgeous pocket beaches here, and beautiful natural swimming pools. Flower gardens are everywhere, the island could not be safer, cleaner, calmer, and more exquisitely charming. A few days here will do wonders for you. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #131 Photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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THE AVATAR MOUNTAINS

avatar_mountains The gigantic forest-covered stone pillars of Zhangjiajie in a remote region of Hunan are so famous for being a featured location in the Avatar movie they’ve been renamed the Avatar Mountains. You can take a cable car through them to view them from above. Hard to get to and certainly worth it. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #269 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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COMMENCEMENT 2025

graduates[This Monday’s Archive was originally published in 2005. We rerun it annually at college graduation time. Feel quite free to send this to any recent college graduate you may know.]

Mr. Chancellor, Members of the Board of Regents, Members of the Faculty, Honored Graduates, Families and Friends:

It's funny that they call this ceremony a Commencement, for you've all reached the finish line:  college, goodbye, we're outta here.  Yet of course, "commencement" means a beginning, not an end.

But one is supposed to at least start - commence - a talk such as this by saying funny things.  So I'll start by talking about Clark Gable movies.  If you've heard of Clark Gable at all, you know he was the biggest movie star in Hollywood a long time ago.  His most famous movie was Gone With The Wind.

He made a movie in 1955 called The Tall Men with Jane Russell as his girlfriend and Robert Ryan as the heavy.  It's a pretty ordinary Western flick with outlaws and cowboys and Indians - and at the end, Ryan, the bad guy, and his henchmen get the drop on Gable, the good guy, and all seems lost.  Suddenly, surprise, Gable outfoxes Ryan and triumphs.  Gable makes his exit, and after he does, Ryan delivers a line that I want you to never forget.

Serendipity is funny, a very funny thing, finding something where you least expect it.  Out of the blue, out of a movie awash with pedestrian dialogue, comes a line so profound it detonates inside your brain. Ryan turns to his men and says:

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FLASHBACK FRIDAY – RETRACING HANNIBAL OVER THE ALPS WITH ELEPHANTS

retracing-hannibalSeptember 1979 – my Hannibal Expedition took two elephants over the same pass Hannibal used in 218 BC across the Alps to attack Rome. There is only one pass that fits the contemporary descriptions of both Greek historian Polybius and Roman historian Livy: The Col du Clapier on what is now the French-Italian border.

Unrecognized as Hannibal’s Pass in 1979, it is still a roadless trail today crossed only on foot or mountain bike. But since our expedition, there are now signs proclaiming it La Route d’Hannibal, and even a life-size statue of an elephant at the French village of Bramans where the track over the pass begins.

The photo you see is us climbing high above Bramans (I’m the one in front with the red backpack). It took us five days to carefully guide our elephants (from an Italian circus) over Clapier and down to the Italian village of Susa. First time in 2,197 years and never repeated 41 years since.

Hannibal’s crossing the Alps with elephants is one of the most epic events of world history. To retrace it yourself with elephants is to make that famous history a part of your life in the most uniquely powerful way. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #15 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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NO NAKED HOMES IN MADEIRA

portuguese-flowers

Funchal, Madeira.  On the Portuguese island of Madeira in the Atlantic Ocean, there is a common expression:  “A home without flowers is like a naked person without clothes.”  Here is an example, one of many thousands.  The Portuguese explorers discovered Madeira in 1419.  It was uninhabited at the time and always had been, no human being had ever been there before.  Over the seven centuries since, an enormous variety of plants from all over the world were brought here and flourished in the eternal spring weather and volcanic soil.  Every fruit, vegetable, tree, bush, flower easily grows here, a botanist’s paradise.  And a paradise for the people who live here, who love to beautify their homes and towns with gorgeous gardens everywhere.  Come with Rebel and me to see for yourself. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #298, photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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HEAVEN ON HERM

belvoir-beach-herm-channel-islandsBelvoir Beach, Herm, Channel Islands. Could there be a more idyllic lunch—grilled lobster, fresh garden salad, chilled Chardonnay – here on Herm, the smallest of the five main Channel Islands. There’s Jersey, Guernsey, Sark, Alderney – and tiny Herm. Less than one square mile, but overflowing with charm and hospitality – from the Victorian White House Hotel to the Mermaid Pub to lobsters at Belvoir Beach. Coming here is a true escape from the worries of the world. At Herm they are a long ways away. Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #177 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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THE NAGAS OF LUANG PRABANG

nagas-of-luang-prabangNagas are multi-headed dragons who rise up to protect the former royal capital of Laos, Luang Prabang. The city along the Mekong River has been the center of Lao culture since the 600s. The Kingdom of Laos, “Land of a Million Elephants,” had to struggle for centuries to avoid being absorbed by the empires of Siam and Khmer (Cambodia). It was the French who wrested Laos from Siam (Thailand) in the 1890s, giving it independence in 1953.

For centuries, devout Buddhists have been building beautifully ornate shrines and temples called Wats here in Luang Prabang. Every day at dawn, hundreds of red-robed monks living in the Wats parade through the city streets for donations. Since the Pathet Lao seizure of power in 1975, moving the capital to Vientiane, Luang Prabang is free of politics, preserved as a religious haven and treasure house of Laotian culture.

A few days here is not to be missed. As you enjoy a glass of good French wine at a riverbank café watching the sunset over the Mekong, give thanks to the Nagas who are still protecting this sanctuary city. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #24, photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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MEMORIAL DAY FLAG SKYDIVE

©Jack WheelerMy skydiving buddy Chris Wentzel and I made this flag jump on Memorial Day years ago to pay tribute to those in our military who gave their lives for America. I’m on the right, Chris on the left. The jump was performed at the Skydive Perris drop zone in Perris, California. It’s only fitting I post this on TTP in honor of those whom we memorialize in gratitude on this Memorial Day weekend. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #303 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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FLASHBACK FRIDAY – MONGOL NOMADS ARE OBLIVIOUS TO US

mongol-nomadsThese Mongol nomads in the vast grasslands of central Mongolia milking their goats have a way of life unchanged for centuries. All of our concerns, worries and fears that plague us are totally irrelevant to them. They don’t know about them and wouldn’t care if they did.

Spending time with people such as these gives you an invaluably broader perspective of life on our planet. Our concerns, the issues that dominate our headline news, suddenly seem more parochial and far less important. An evening drinking kumiss (Mongol beer, fermented mare’s milk) in their yurts, telling stories, laughing at jokes – you realize how easy it is to relate to them through the core humanity we all have in our souls.

Exploring Mongolia in this way is a priceless adventure. We’ll be there this June, and again in the summer of 2026. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #9 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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HALF-FULL REPORT 05/23/25

Trump’s Oval Office Ambush of South Africa’s leader Cyril Ramaphosa on Wednesday (5/21) has so many facets it’s a diamond of political exposure. Here are the principal three.

First, what President ever would have stones of steel to do such a thing – point out the evil a country is committing to its leader right to his face, and when he denies it, shows him a pre-prepared video disclosing the evil proving it, huge crowds chanting “Kill the Boer!” (White South Africans)?

How chilling is this sight?.......

Awful lot in this HFR, some of it revelatory, some of it thoughtful and quite sobering, some of it will cause you to fall out of your chair laughing.  Get ready for a HFR that’s as fun as it is informing. Here we go…

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MONTEZUMA’S CASTLE

montezumas-castleWhen American explorers came upon this extraordinary cliff dwelling in 1860s Arizona, they dubbed it “Montezuma’s Castle” on a whim. The Aztec ruler had nothing to do with it, of course. The Anasazi people built a number of these marvelous structures in the Southwest, high up on cliffs above a river that seasonally flooded.

For hundreds of years the Anasazi flourished, skilled agriculturalists and brilliant at constructing vast irrigation systems. Yet it all came to naught with a devastating megadrought with no rain for many decades, culminating in the collapse of the Anasazi culture and abandonment of their cliff dwellings by the early 1500s.

Another lesson that it is nature that control’s the Earth’s climate, not us. You’ll find Montezuma’s Castle above Beaver Creek south of Sedona. It’s a marvel not to be missed. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #194 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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LAKE BLED

lake-bledFirst Lady Melania Trump would instantly recognize Lake Bled, for it is considered the most beautiful place in her home country of Slovenia. It’s a glacial lake up in the Julian Alps near the border with Austria. The small lush island you see has been a pilgrimage site for millennia – first to the Temple of Ziva, the Slovene goddess of love and fertility, then until now to the Church of the Mother of God. For all that time, Slovene couples came here to get married.

There are 99 steps from the rowboat landing to the church, and from ancient times to today, the tradition is that for a happy and long-lasting marriage, the groom must carry his bride up all 99 steps while she must remain silent while he does.

Lake Bled is a place of deep serenity and joyous calm. Come here to experience both. (Glimpses of Our Breathtaking World #178 photo ©Jack Wheeler)

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